Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Are we in TEXAS?? Oh no, it's the Northern Territory!

DAY 59 (23rd June):  From Longreach, we drove to Winton, which is the home of all things Banjo.  Paterson this is.  Winton's claim to fame?  It's the town the the first singing of Waltzing Matilda supposedly happened in.  But first of all, let us stop at the bizarre......


This is Arno's Wall.  Thanks to Wikipedia, I can tell you that it extends for almost 70m and is 2m high in places.  He migrated to Oz 30 years ago, and most of the stuff in the wall is salvaged from the tip.  The rocks come from his own opal mine.
 I guess if they weren't going to be used for anything else...... ??

 Kids on some saddles outside a hardware store on the main street  :)

 Ol' Banjo....

Scene from the Waltzing Matilda Centre.  Any guesses as to its representative poem?  Quite an interesting place, lots of stories from swagmen, and people who worked the land.

 The sculpture representing the song.  Each plinth represented a verse.

 The hotel where the auspicious first recital happened.

 Winton is also home to a musical fence.  The two horizontal sticks extending from the pole in the centre had "fret" markers on them, so, using a metal pipe and a stick, you could play it like a slide guitar.  So I did.  Badly.

After leaving Winton, and having thoroughly soaked up all things Matilda, we felt we had to go to THE waterhole (supposed).  Combo Waterhole.  Child #1 put on a spectacular display of cranky-pantsing for the entire 2.6km walk.  Not that you could tell in the photo...

 Us....singing, sitting, and waiting for the billy to boil......  now what tune is running through your head now, hmmm?!

 The waterhole is a result of small dams built across the river, which at this point is split into about five branches.  Of course, it was the fifth and furthest that was supposedly THE waterhole.

 The sign.  It has to be true.  They have a sign.

 While I remember - what's with Queensland's new number plate slogan?  Are they acing the Naplan or something? 

DAY 60 (24th May):  Onward from Winton, we headed towards Mt Isa.  There's still a bit of water lying around, we stopped at a river and had a bit of a look.

 Dunno what he's trying to blend in with.  He's not exactly got the camoflage thing happening.

 The river....
A pwetty wildflower  :)

On the way, we stopped in at the remains of a town called Mary Kathleen.  Not a ghost town in the true sense, as they had sold off all the buildings, and just the concrete pads remained.  It only closed up in 1982.  You can drive around all the streets and figure out where things were though.
Roundabout at the entrance to town.

 I found the old bar.  Wasn't a barman in sight though.  Pity, cos it was quite warm.

 ANZ bank!

 View through the trees to the tennis courts.

 Having lunch at the footy oval.

 The swimming pool.....  :)

 Might as well have a kick if we're on an oval!

Then it was on to Mt Isa for the night.

DAY 61 (25th May):  The two days we were in Mt Isa coincided with the local show.  Somehow, the kids didn't realise.  Even though when at the lookout below, they could SEE it over the back of the hill!
Anyway, to the day's adventures, first stop was at the underground hospital.  Back in 1941, there was a large contingent of American soldiers in Mt Isa, and the mine was producing a lot of lead for the war effort, so it stood to reason (they thought) that it could be a target for the Japanese.  So some miners built an underground hospital, just in case, and all very secret.  None of the people in the town knew about it, and when the Americans left, they sealed it up.  It was found after the property nearby wanted to expand, and wanted to level the hill it was built in.  All the stuff in it was just left there, the restorers found some photos and have put it all back how it was in the day.  Fascinating stuff.  Amazing that it remained unfound until 1971.

 The entrance

 A corridor.  All rough hewn walls, and dirt floors.

 The nursery.

 All of this was just left there, some of the medicine bottles are still full.

 From there we continued to the lookout that the kids didn't look out of very well....
Yes.... you keep looking out over the CITY side.........

 View of the city.

Then onto the dinosaur display.  There's an area close by that they are finding lots and lots of fossils in.

 This sign amused me - creative naming, or what?

 They had some great dioramas

The kids with a .... big pour???

DAY 62 (26th May):  We drove.  And drove and drove. 

 We followed a giant tea party....... or the folk from the fair.

 Until we hit the NT!  Who give the best notification for the border change.  We drove right by other ones with hardly any notice.  This one gave us 500m warning in case we wanted to take a photo.  At the last stop before the border, Camooweal, they had a sign on the servo saying "Welcome to Queensland.  Put your clocks forward 5 years and 30 minutes"  :D

Not that it made any difference to us.....
650km today.  We made it to a place called Three Way Roadhouse.  I'll leave you to imagine the bumper sticker.  Pete got one.

DAY 63 (27th May):  From Three Ways, we headed south - lots of driving again.  And lots of ROCKS!  About time we had some more rocks.  First stop was at the Devil's Pebbles.  A bit meh.
 the kids on the Pebbles.

 Cool grasshopper thing that I found.

From the Pebbles, we drove on to the real thing - the Devils Marbles.  Spectacular stuff. 

 Impressive formations

 He's very strong......

Little Miss No Fear - she followed Pete, and only had to be helped for the last bit.

 Boulders....... go on, say it!  You know you want to!

 When one climbs a rock, one should always pause for an "I'm king of the World" moment.

I was impressed by the almost perfect straightness of the split!

 This is the iconic one, I think.  But you have to walk a ways to get to it.  So I left the fam making lunch and I walked.

On from the Marbles, we passed an interesting roadhouse......!!!  Wycliffe Well is the self-proclaimed UFO capital of Australia.  There was supposedly sightings here a few years ago, they've really run with the theme!
This was the entrance to the caravan park

 The obligatory alien cutout....  :)
 It definitely is a standout when it comes to roadhouses!  They have a bit of a cheesy display inside, and also some really overpriced fuel!

A wildflower montage to finish with.

DAY 64 (28th May):  Another day with lots of driving.  We stopped in Aileron, home to the Anmatjere Man (and woman and child, but they came along later).  A big thing, yes, but a bit like the Big Australian Farmer way back in SA.  Too much meaning.  Impressive though!




The other sculpture at the servo  :)


And then we were there - the red centre.


DAY 65 (29th May):  Had a bit of a lazy day in "The Alice".  I think we deserved it.
 View from Anzac Hill, over the gap between the East and West McDonald Ranges.

Sunset at the lookout.


DAY 66 (30th May):  A day of rocks!  Lots and lots of big, red rocks.....  We left Alice Springs and took the long way to Uluru, driving the Mereenie Loop so we could see some more sights.  First stop was Simpson's Gap.  We arrived at about 9.30am, so its was very chilly, and the sun wasn't hitting the rocks so much.  Still, you can see it was pretty red!


 The gap.  It'd be pretty impressive in flood times.
 The creek was still flowing through it.  We were surprised at just how much water was in the middle here.  Not just that there WAS water, more that there was evidence (creek beds and the like) that water wasn't as unusual as I thought.
 More red rocks and water.
 M having a think about stepping in the water!

From there, we then drove to Standley's Chasm (thanks Mum, for the recommendation!)  it was a bit of a walk away, through very pretty - and GREEN - surrounds.
 Starting the walk.  This is NOT what I imagined the red centre to look like!!

 A bit of bouldering.....
 The Chasm.  Very spectacular!  Ideally, you're meant to visit around midday to get the effect of the sun on the rocks, but ever on a time frame, it wasn't meant to be for us.
 A bit of a Star Wars trash compactor moment??

After ol' Standley, we took off for Palm Valley - another recommendation from Mum.  What wasn't mentioned was the drive in.  This was the sign we saw:

 I don't know if they've changed the road or what (there was some evidence of maybe an old bitumen road for part of the way) but it was ... interesting!!! Pete loved it, as we hadn't done any real offroad driving on the trip.  So we went the whole way - WITH the camper trailer attached.  The last 4km past the campsite was particularly entertaining......
 Cool rock formations...
 The first part of the walk....
 We're in THE MIDDLE OF THE DRYEST CONTINENT ON EARTH people!  Really??
 Rock wallaby.
 Because of the isolation, lots of unique plants have survived here.
 Yay, self timer  :)
 Really striking rock patterns....
Water obstacle...
Ok, so I know you want to see some of the real off road stuff, right?  Well, here's some quality camera work for you  :)


After that 3 hour jaunt, we headed for Kings Canyon for the night, and $2.19/L fuel...... yay.


DAY 67 (1st July):  Up early again, and we started off with taking a quick look around Kings Canyon.  There were two walks to do - the rim walk, or the creek walk.  Looking at the steps going up to the rim, and looking at the kids..... we chose the creek walk!  Not as speccy - we'll have to return in a few years to do a force-march then  :)

 I thought this was interesting..... again, I would have assumed that the red centre was too dry for any fungus, but it was not so.
 Walking - it was a really pretty walk.  You could see that the water had been about a metre or more deep at some point, with all the debris piled up against the trees in places.

 More fabulous rock structures  :)

 More red rocks!  Yet again, we were there too early to get the full sun on them.  Ah well.


 Spectacular wind erosion.
 The steps we chose not to climb..... THIS time!  :)

 J being an "explorer".  This was how we motivated the kids.  "Let's be explorers and see what we can find!"  What ever works, I tell you!
We hit the road again, and passed this:
 So I did.  But we didn't go and have a look.  I misjudged the NT - wish we'd had an extra week or so to look around!
 More brumbies?  Although, not so sure.  They may have just been in a very large paddock.

Finally we got to Uluru, unpacked and went to check out the rock.  I have to say that nothing really prepares you for the size and sheer spectacle of it.  Everyone has seen pictures of it, but to actually stand in front of it and look up..... wow.....  Both the kids wanted to climb it....
 Yeah, I think not!  J insisted that her legs were super strong, and she'd be able to.... but no.  We did a walk along the base to a gorge.

 One day, EVERYONE will make a suitable photo face for a family photo!  :)

 Resting at the waterhole.

 Aboriginal rock art - a bit artificially red, so I could get the contrast up!

 We got our spot early for the sunset, as we'd heard that it gets really crowded.  We were there at 4pm!
  It did fill up pretty fast though.

Had the camera on vivid colour for this shot, but it really does glow in that last bit before the sun disappears.  Spectacular (think I've used up my allowance for that word!).

DAY 68 (2nd July):   A Day of Rocks, Red Dust and Disaster.   (Believe me, this day needed a title!)
This was the day that we were to start the serious journey back west.  We started out super early so as to catch the sunrise at Uluru, which I have to say that even thought the actual sunrise itself was quite spectacular, the whole colours of the rock was a little underwhelming after the display the night before.  And it was cold.  If anyone wants a business idea that’s guaranteed short hours and big income, go open a coffee van in the sunrise car park.  I was a little amused at the fact that it has to be one of the only times people had their BACKS to the sunrise!
 The sunrise, silhouetting the crowds

 The rock at sunrise.  I was happier looking the other way.

We returned to camp, packed up, and set off for the border.
Kata Tjuta  (or the Olgas) is on the way, so we stopped in there for a quick look.  Very striking, yet again, we were probably too early in the morning to be able to see the wonderful colours that the sun produces.  Ah well.  We did the shorter of the walks up one of the gorges.  I have to say again – nothing prepares you for the sheer size of these rocks.  Amazing.

 This tallest one is actually a couple of hundred metres taller than Uluru.  The walk we did took us right up into the gorge on the left.

 It was a bit harder going that we realised, but the kids did really well.  Lots of loos-ish rocks, and very uneven ground.
 Again, water at the base!  The walk continued up through the scrubby stuff behind us.

 Again, the kids thought they might climb it.  They didn't stand a chance  :)

 At the end.

 Following our usual strategy, we were too early to get the sun on the rocks, but it was hitting the top of them.

 In their entirety.

Then it was hit the road time.  We took off on “Australia’s Longest Shortcut” that goes from Uluru through to Laverton in the WA Goldfields – about 1100km in all.  And it’s dirt road all the way.  And in the NT, it’s not the most well maintained road.  Lots of sudden dips, some that had our backsides leaving the seat, and one that we suspect had the car leaving the ground – oops!  This was the beginning of the disaster part.  We’d done a little gravel driving a couple of days before, and had found that the canopy wasn’t dustproof (few things ARE red dust proof!) so I had fortunately bagged some of the loose stuff.  We stopped at one point so I could get the kids something, I went to the back……. And we had no back anymore.  Just lots of pieces of shattered glass, and the brake light hanging from a wire.  And loads of red dust.  Crap, crappetty, crap.  At the next roadhouse, they gave us a piece of cardboard so we could partially cover it, but when we stopped in Tjukayirla Roadhouse  (the most isolated roadhouse in Australia!) for the night, loads had turned into bucketloads.  Blergh.

 The roads.  They LOOK ok.  They are very deceptive.  Especially on the NT side of things.

 The missing window - we still had the brake light at that stage though.

 Lets just add some MUD to that equation, hmmm???

Some wildlife.  They are the most ungainly looking animals when they decide to eventually run away from the oncoming car.

Not sure you can really get the full effect, but it was pretty bad by the time we got to Tjurkirla.

And, I'll leave it there - I know, you're all DYING to know what happens next now!  I'm just giving you the Home and Away ending to an episode - hehehe!

Hope you're all well and warm!  It's cold back here in the west - what's going on??

K, P, M & J xx



























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